the painless plan less grammar guide

the painless plan less grammar guide

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the painless plan less grammar guideThe procedure was basically the same for both cars, and some pictures may jump from one car to the other. The procedure is the same for OBDI cars except OBDI cars to not require the a Crank Angle Sensor. The parts necessary for the swaps were obtained from 2 separate OBDII ’96 S14s. OBDI transmissions could have been used, but a mount would have to be drilled for the CAS, and we didn’t want to worry about that. The conversions were carried out in my 2.I will try to provide as many pictures as possible. WARNING: Before you start I suggest you read this entire writeup, and search for others - you will want all the info you can get. Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremely hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in. You will need patience. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a 240sx only weighs 2800 lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt. 2. Remove the finisher plate from your center console. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the drive shaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning. To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your drive shaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake (not too hard there guys). Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft support a thick wire X-member that keeps the drive shaft from whipping around if it breaks. Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Get them out of your engine bay. 9. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust. Two of the sensors can be cut. 10. Now for one of the time consuming parts (this took us most of a day).

  • the painless plan less grammar guide.

You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine. We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench on top of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket (with swivels), and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter.We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose. 11. Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the cross member, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the cross member. To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pulley. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before. This next step is very frustrating. Brace your flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel (one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts). If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you (unlike us) have an impact wrench this may come in handy. 15. Once the flywheel comes off, you should see a bushing sticking out about a.Sand inside your crankshaft with some 800 grit sandpaper, this will help the pilot bushing slide in if there is rust buildup.Then clean out inside there really well. Take a hammer and a 12mm socket and hammer your pilot bushing into your crankshaft. Get them on there tight because you don’t want your flywheel to come loose and have to do all the above all over. off your flywheel by spraying it with some carb cleaner or something similar. 3. Next, use the alignment tool and affix your clutch disc over the flywheel. If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. 4. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. 5. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it (it will come in a clutch kit). To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. 5 ?. Take the shifter off the 5 speed transmission if you haven’t already. 6. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. Please refer to the “wiring section” of this writeup to do this. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission (CAS?) you must leave out otherwise it will catch on the flywheel and break into lots of pieces, or rub on top of the transmission bay - make sure you put it back in later, otherwise your car will not work. 7. This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed (at its center of gravity on a flat spot) and another jack at the very back of the transmission. This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in. Easier said then done. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch.We found the clutch part out the hard way. Bolt in all the bellhousing bolts and put on the starter. Then, slowly raise the back of the transmission while you lower the front of the engine and reattach the cross member and bolt the cross member back in to hold the back of the transmission up. You should now be able to take all the jacks out from under the transmission and put back in all sensors and vac. lines. 8. Now it’s time to install the clutch and brake pedals. First do the brake pedal otherwise the clutch pedal will get in the way. There are 4 bolts holding the brake assembly to the firewall, and one holding the brake assembly up under the dash. Remove all of these, and the two sensors on the brake pedal, and the cotter pin holding the brake pedal to the booster. Now with some wrestling, the brake assembly will slide out and there is no need to drop the steering column. Now install your new brake pedal and put the sensors back in. One sensor is for the brake lights, the other I believe is for cruise control. If you only have one bung in your new pedal I believe the cruise control sensor can be mounted on the cluth pedal. 9. Once the brake pedal is in it is time to install the clutch pedal. Luckily, Nissan left a guide under the dash that tells you where to drill. Drill out the two bolt holes and the larger center whole with a circle cutter drill bit and touch it up with a dremel. Slide your clutch assembly up there and bolt it in, attach the clutch master cylinder on the other side and cotter pin them together. 10. Run the clutch hardline from the clutch master cylinder to the clutch slave cylinder and by now you should have bolted the slave cylinder on the engine. At this time you can also eliminate the clutch dampening system by bypassing the large diameter hardline loop, and going directly from the hardline coming out of the master cylinder to the rubber line coming out of the slave cylinder. This will give your clutch pedal a better feel and less stuff for you to worry about. 11. Reinstall the drive shaft, then fill the transmission up with gear oil (2.4 quarts max) from where the shifter sits, and then reinstall the shifter. Two of the shifter bolts you will have to be under the car to get to. 12. Bleed your clutch lines and adjust your clutch pedal to where you want it. 13. Re-install the shifter rubber boot, the center console, and the shifter finisher plate and leather boot. 14. Lower your car onto the ground (we ended up with our car teeter-tottering on 2 jack stands which was kind of funny and dangerous at the same time) 15. Start your car and see what happens. 16. We got a CEL when using the Auto ECU, but I have heard you can wire the CEL light to the airbag or something to only light up when you start the car, or just put a resistor in the CEL circuit. 17. Drive it around the block, and take it easy until your clutch is broken in (about 500 miles) Wiring Visit: for wiring instructions. Any other sensors that were on the auto, but not on the 5 speed can be cut off and discarded - I believe there were 2 or 3 of them on the passenger side of the bellhousing. Results: The car ran fine, the transmission is very loud when the interior pieces are not installed, and you will get a CEL. But now you get to shift your car yourself. 5th gear on Matt's car will grind if you do not shift just right (the transmission is used, so some quirks are to be expected). Also we have not figured out how to get cruise control working - so that shouldn't be too hard. My car is not 100 swapped yet, but due to some previous-owner installed car alarm, I can't get my radio to work. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stick shift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can re-pin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did on Matt's car). In order to re-pin it, follow the link here: JWT Wiring pdf Once it is re-pinned, you may need to buy a new rear O2 sensor in order to clear all CELS (that is mentioned in the link) Sorry, I'm not to NICO savvy - I am mostly on local forums and don't visit this site a whole lot. If this is not removed then it could slip while driving and your key will be stuck in the ignition. You may say that removeing it is common sense but so is removeing the auto shifter and everybody mentioned that. Just thought this would help I believe the wiring is extremly similar, but some connectors look different and some wires are different colors. Everything works great, no 5th gear grind like on the starfire blue kouki. The only annoying thing is the clutch is really soft, and it's a paint to adjust the pedal. In the near future I am going to swap in a 5 speed ECU which will get rid of all the codes. Once the new ECU was installed, there was no CEL and no more rough starts - the car behaves exactly the same as a stickshift that came out of the factory. The Manual ECU can be used with the automatic transmission wiring harness, it plugs straight in. If your car is a '95 the new ECU must be from a '95 (maybe 96?) If your car is a '96 the new ECU must be from a '96 (maybe 95?) If your car is a 97-98, the new ECU must be from a 97-98, or you can repin a 95-96 ECU to work in a 97-98 240sx (which is what we did). In order to repin it, follow the link above Thanks,Read I'm looking at trying to find why. But you cannot use a S13 transmission in the S14 car because you will not have the sensor in the top of the transmission so that your ECU will work right,this is only true with the factory motor. The ABS cars use a shorter drive shaft in the back section. The S13 and S14 use different drive shafts. It's really best to get all your parts from a S13 if you're going 89 through 94 swap and if you're going a newer car use all S14 pieces, I have seen the petals interchanged but there are differences and you'll just have less headaches. I've done quite a few these conversions and deftly makes life easier. Thanks for clearing that up though. Also I just realized that I never said to bolt the 5 speed back to the engine. I hope that is common sense.I am using this write-up which is very good by the way, but I have a few problems. I started with a non-turbo automatic s14 silvia and purchased a manual gearbox conversion kit out of a turbo silvia. The problem is the drive shaft is about 14mm too short and i can't get the starter motor to fit. Do you know if these parts are different between the turbo and non-turbo versions. Any help would be much appreciated Thanks They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by Nissan or Infiniti. Material may not be copied or reprinted without written permission. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Any idea on price? Otherwise I'll have to DIY it and im a little nervous about that one. Failing that, il get some crates in and invite all you wounderful peeps round for a conversion party, lol. Think Il try and source a gearbox and the rest of bits I need for begining of next month then when I get payed, so please keep your eyes open for me peeps. Or does someone have a spare lying around that they fancy selling to me?You might need a clutch slave cylinder, spigot bush and gear lever though There may be an S.O.S. thread popping up in the near future, haha He writes how its done PM me with details if you like. ThanksThink i might go get the latest banzai mag. He writes how its done Click to expand. Whera abouts is it?Need subframe from you!Driftworks Ltd are regulated by the Finance Conduct Authority. CCL No.648295. The work itself was carried out by TDi in Barking Essex using the research I had done, work took approx 40 hours, but now we know how to do it, TDi reckon they could do the next one in 2-3 days The job itself is resonably straight forward. The inner bulkhead has the cut outs already in it for the master cylinder, you need to drill the outer bulkhead to match, if you pull the carpet back to the left of where the steering column goes through the bulhead you will see what I mean Once this is cut out and the auto trans controller removed, the rest is pretty much a straight forward bolt off bolt on job 1. Drain auto transmission fluid from the gearbox, remove cooling lines and unplug all wiring and sensor's 2. Remove propshaft 3. Remove exhaust front pipe and bracket 4. Support the back of the gearbox and then remove the crossmember, shifter linkage and interior trim 5. Remove starter motor 6. Remove transmission 7. Remove flywheel 8. Remove auto trans adaptor from crank ( this was one of the time consuming parts, in the end we drilled and tapped it and used a slide hammer, although others have packed the hole in the adaptor with grease then used a rod that just fits in the hole and drive the rod in to get the adaptor out using the hydraulic effect 9. Install spigot bush into the crank 10. Install clutch master cylinder, brake pedal and clutch pedal 13. Install all hydraulic lines 14. Install Manual gearbox and refit starter motor and front pipe 15. Fit gear lever 16. Fit propshaft 17. Connect speed sensor, reverse light switch, and neutral position sensor ( some cutting and splicing of the wiring is needed for the reverse lights and neutral position censor.Bleed hydraulic lines. 19. Start car and test This is just a basic guide to give you some idea of what is required to do the conversion.Ken, your were running yours with the auto diff for a while, do you know how much the speedo is mucked up if you keep the auto diff. C.If the auto is in superb condition low miles and so on then for arround?3K after the conversion is probably worth it. For us that already have auto's we have modded them to the point that it would be a pain to take all the bits off to put on to a manual car. The reason why i brought an auto is that it was more than 2 grand cheaper than a year older S14a with 15K miles on (mine had 5), also nissan were still selling s14a's new at ?24K, i paid ?13K C.Have a look at the car listed below, I think it is still for sale. I was gonna buy it and got some pics sent it looks good and he is decent guy too, not a touring though but good price. I changed my mind and want an S14a now, purely for looks and nothing else. Just an example of whats about if you look hard enough To go any further I had to a choice either take off all the mods, sell the car then try and find a manual car in as good condition with history, resonable miles etc etc then spend more time and money refitting all the bits, having the car mapped or do the auto to manual conversion. With hindsight though, although the auto was great to drive especially in town, I wish I had bought a manual car in the first placeYes auto is not as quick off the mark - coz you have to hold it on the brake, but the changes are so quick I doubt you'd lose anything against a manual. My 0 - 60 at TRAX from idle with the windows open (doh. Picture time. Keep in mind that the large power wires are not on the harness to keep the harness simple to see and les confusing lol.Again thanks guys But to make it simpler, unwrap the entire lower harness. The alternator, starter, OPS, and VSS will all be separate from the rest of the wiring. Plug all that back in (you can delete the OPS if you want, not really needed since the switch is likely leaking oil anyway) just like it was originally. This is all exactly the same as it was since it's engine related. Now take the automatic portion of the harness coming from the fusebox, cut the reverse light wiring out from it and run it to the reverse switch on the transmission, connect them (there's no polarity here, either wire to either one works). The rest of the automatic harness from the transmission can be thrown away. The plug going to the engine harness feeds the CPS and rear O2. If you still have these, plug them back in. The ASCD cruise cancel switch can be legged off the brake cancel switch or just leave it, I always brake before clutching anyway when the cruise is on, if you do as well you don't need the cancel switch. I have searched this topic I'm just looking to see if I can get some definite answers seein im using a sohc tranny. Basically heres what I have so far for parts. I pulled all these parts out of my 90 240sx. Manual transmission cross member clutch pedal hydraulic assembly flywheel clutch (getting a new one though) gusset pieces from the engine (not sure on the correct term) manual sheet metal piece (not sure on the correct term) misc bolts (pretty much every bolt that came off the car when I pulled the tranny) And heres the parts I need Drive shaft S14 manual ECU (for a 95) S14 manual speed sensor pretty much I was wondering if i'm missing anything.Problem is now I need to figure something out because I need to smog it and it has the check engine light on. CPS is on tranny The only thing i know about the later 95's is that some have the obd2 3 wire o2 sensor. If i'm not mistaken isnt that the crank position sensor.It reads from the flywheel gears. Rear O2 is 3wire on Zenkis, 4wire on Koukis. OBD-I cars have a single wire front sensor, excpet for late year autos that went to the 3wire. CPS is located directly on top of the bellhousing, slightly towards the driverside, secured with an M6 bolt. There's a metal cover over it. Remove it first, otherwise you risk damaging it when pulling the transmission. It is NOT secured through the block like the starter. It's easy to see if you look below the EGR pipe, between the head and the firewall. CEL will trip if there is no VSS signal, so make sure it's hooked up too, it will also trip if the neutral and 5th position switches are not connected, but that will require more rewiring and the correct year manual ECU. So does this mean some things might not be neccesary? This doesn't mean they're OBD2 tho. Edit Just wondering does anyone know if i can use the speed sensor on the auto tranny on the manual tranny. The site may not work properly if you don't update your browser. If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit old reddit. Press J to jump to the feed. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts Log In Sign Up User account menu 5 Are there any real cons to doing am auto to manual swap? Will it be better to buy a original manual. And how much does the swap cost. Thanks guys 8 comments share save hide report 86 Upvoted This thread is archived New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast Sort by best The first time i did it took me a few days, as opposed to the 12 hours most people suggest. This is probably the biggest con of the whole job. Seriously having the right tools for the job such as extensions and swivels will make your life alot easier when doing the bell housing bolts. The AT bushing you have to take out can take a while aswell, i suggest don't even try using a bearing puller just start drilling it out. I wound up using two different ones neither worked and i broke one. If you plan on or have the money to do an sr swap in a month or two. I suggest waiting to do that. It took me almost a week and i was on spring break. Another thing that can take a while is lining the manual up onto the engine. Just things to consider. Also regardless of what anyone says, you have to use redline 75w-90 gl4 gear oil. Anything else will mess you synchros up. The redline is 15 a bottle and u need 2.4 liters. Lastly you can use your auto ecu, and you cannot use the auto drive shaft with the manual( I know that seems obvious but people said you could and I tried, it won't even line up), the wiring is simple you wire the reverse lights to the reverse switch on the trans and you have jumper a cable, but that is it, there is some guides on this stuff online, they will be missing some stuff, if you have questions message me and I will try to help you out. Also if you have a 96(ODBII) or above be careful as you will run codes on your ecu if you don't switch to the manual ecu. 6 share Report Save level 2 Original Poster 5 years ago Thanks a lot !! I have time since its summer break, how much did the whole thing cost you.All rights reserved Back to Top. Instead, you simply install the fitting, and then the line. Frees up horse power by replacing the heavy factory 2pc driveshaft that weighs more than (20lbs) to the steel shaft (15lbs) for more throttle response and reduced rotating weight. Works for both KA and SR20DET motors. All aluminum driveshaft are rpm balanced and rated just about 800hp. In order to stay competitive, it is important to keep up with the latest modifications and upgrades—not to mention regular maintenance. One of the most important upgrades you can make to an automatic Nissan 240SX is a swap to 5 speeds. If you want optimal power, speed, and performance, a 240SX 5-speed swap is critical. Fortunately, we provide the products and resources to make your conversion painless. As you might imagine, finding those parts can be challenging. Fortunately, we carry everything that you need so you do not have to bother scouring the internet or local shops for the parts you require. We offer top-of-the-line clutch lines, clutch fork pivots, cylinders, and much more, all at the lowest prices. If you are not sure how to get started, our expert staff will be more than happy to provide you with reliable information. We have an extensive inventory, and we specialize in Nissan 240SX parts, so place your order today. However, there are ways to cut down on prices drastically. For starters, you are here, so that is a step in the right direction. We keep our prices low because we know that is what gains us loyal customers. You will not find a better deal on Nissan 240SX 5-speed swap parts. When you also consider our top-notch customer service, our generous sales, and our rewards program, it becomes clear that Enjuku Racing is the preferred choice for Nissan parts for a reason. Our free rewards program gives you the opportunity to gain exclusive coupon codes that can reduce your 240SX manual swap costs substantially. All you need to do is sign up for a free account and then start collecting rewards by liking and sharing pages, placing frequent orders, writing product reviews, and more. You are going to be surprised by how easy it is to keep your upgrades affordable! Just because our prices are low does not mean that we cut corners. We only sell products that we stand behind so you can order confidently. Our 240SX 5-speed swap parts are the best on the market. If you have any questions about them, please do not hesitate to call our expert customer service, and we will be happy to give you any information you require. We want to you to maximize your car’s performance, and that means using quality components. We recognize that business longevity requires treating customers with the respect that we would expect. Our knowledgeable staff is more than willing to help out if you have any questions, so feel free to give us a call at (352) 241-8399 if you have any questions. A 240SX 5-speed swap can make a huge difference in improving your car’s performance, so place your order today and get the best deal from Enjuku Racing. For converting your 240sx from automatic to manual transmission. The ISR clutch line utilizes a seperate fitting from the line so you don't need to keep twisting the line to install it, you just install the fitting and then the line. This is a much better deisgn than some of the other lines out there. Our hose is made with an extruded PTFE core and a stainless steel wire braided cover. They reduce volumetric expansion giving you the reliability and safety you demand. The rubber cover is also vulnerable to attacks from the ozone layer rubber which causes it to deteriorate. In extreme applications (Auto X, racing, hard driving) rubber hoses might be susceptible to flying debris. Stainless steel lines will give protection from theses issues along with enhancing the appearance of your installation. Please note you do not need the smaller clutch line with this setup. This runs from Master Cylinder all the way to Slave. For converting your 240sx from automatic to manual transmission. The ISR clutch line utilizes a seperate. To connect with Jdm Auto parts, join Facebook today. Join or Log In Jdm Auto parts is on Facebook. To connect with Jdm Auto parts, join Facebook today. We are an Australian Online Store and Importer of. Goleby's Parts 59K likes this If you're into Turbocharged Performance then Goleby’s Parts is your number 1 for all your. See More KMAK AERO 13K likes this Manufacturers of the highest quality fibreglass products. Offering many different styles of body. Trix's parts 3.8K likes this Dealing in new and used performance parts for all makes and models aswell as a massive range of. 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